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Valiant XSV40 trigger adjustment

Posted: Sun Feb 29, 2004 5:46 pm
by Allard Chu
regarding http://www.pilkguns.com/coach/dxs40tr.htm
can anyone tell me what screws #2 and #3 do specifically? The manual only refers to adjusting screw #1 for play and #4 for the 2nd stage trigger weight.
thanks in advance

Valiant trigger

Posted: Mon Mar 01, 2004 11:12 am
by Jay V
This is the info that we have used to adjust our Valiant triggers.


Jay V
www.aiac-airguns.org



Daisy Valiant Trigger Adjustment

Note – Trigger weight is affected by the position of the trigger shoe on the trigger bar. Moving the trigger shoe to the rear will lighten the trigger weight by increasing leverage at the trigger bar pivot.

*Some newer model Valiants will not be able to be adjusted up to 1 1/2 pounds with these adjustments - contact Pilkington at (931) 924-3400 if this is the case with your Valiant.

Basic Adjustment

Screw #1 - Farthest forward, adjusts trigger take-up. Small straight-blade screw

Screw #2 – Front screw of 2 small screws on trigger bar. Use 2mm Allen wrench.
Adjust 2 ½ turns out from flush.

Screw #3 – Rear screw of 2 small screws on trigger bar. Use 2mm Allen wrench.
Adjust flush.

Screw #4 – Farthest rear screw, behind trigger guard. Use 2mm Allen wrench.
Adjust 1/8” out from flush.

***CAUTION! – Turned in too far screw #4 will drop into gun, and will require disassembly to retrieve!

Additional Adjustment

Course weight adjustment – Screw #3 – Counter - clockwise to increase trigger weight.

Fine weight adjustment – Screw #4 – Clockwise to increase trigger weight.
***CAUTION! – Turned in too far screw #4 will drop into gun, and will require disassembly to retrieve!

Posted: Mon Mar 01, 2004 11:25 am
by Buck
To start with if you look kind if between screw #1 and screw #2, looking at an angle you will see a pin going through the side of the action that holds the trigger bar in place. The trigger bar pivots off that pin, and what screw #2 and screw #3 do is change the length of the lever witch is the trigger bar. That in turn changes the trigger weight. And screw #4 actually only changes the trigger weight a little bit, what it actually does is acts as a reset spring for the sear.

Valient trigger adj.

Posted: Wed Mar 03, 2004 1:51 pm
by Peter D
Be very carefull with the older triggers. This design was sketchy at best. We went through many triggers just by loosening them and retightening them. These triggers would just snap in half. Also insure that the trigger is fully seated on the rail. The trigger will deform the dove tail if it is not and also can snap the dove tail of the trigger off.

Jay spelled it out very well as to the adjustment.

General XS40 questions

Posted: Mon Apr 12, 2004 5:47 pm
by durant7
Well, it would seem we may consider buying one or two of these for the club. Or, some club members are getting very serious about buying one and have asked a few questions. Does it have a rail? It does not say it out right in the Daisy catalog. If not how does one attach a sling for different shooters?

Is there anyone in the Dallas area who might have one to look at? Why spend almost $200 more for a XS40 vs an 888? Because it can also be used for silhouette (I know, not appropriate for this forum) whereas the 888 will just not push out to rams. And, since ALL ARMS is shot outdoors in Texas, CO2 can be a challenge.

And just how different is the Daisy from the AirArms S200? Dumb question really as they cost more, do not have adjustable stock, no sights, but is there something I am missing?

Thanks!!

daisy xs40

Posted: Mon Apr 12, 2004 9:58 pm
by Moe Draznin
Hello again.

Yes the gun has a rail - a standard sling quick connect works well. (not the one that is supplied with the gun).
My son prefer the one that is 25mm high. its easier on the kids hand and legal.

Why XS40 vs 888? mainly because its compressed air and not CO2. much easier to handle and refill at the range. Also, easy to find a scuba shop that will refill the the tank for you ( we are actually using local fire department). I have tried the manual pump - it works but it defeat the purpose. you work up your heart rate filling the cilinders. its much harder then they let you believe it is. I dont recomand that route.


If you remember our conversation about front sight size, 4.0 to 4.3 is about right for distance from the eye to the front sight. inserts are readily avaiable.