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PostPosted: Sun Dec 20, 2015 2:33 pm 
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Joined: Mon Mar 16, 2015 2:33 pm
Posts: 81
Location: Aztec,NM
Looking for clever, economical ways to add about 2.5 lbs. to a Anschutz 8002. I would like to add to barrel and rear stock for a good balance.
Thanks for you ideas in advance!!


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 20, 2015 5:08 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jan 27, 2013 12:33 am
Posts: 65
Location: Germany
2.5 lbs is a lot of mass, but you could make a lead weight (you'll need lead, sand, oil, an old steel pot and a hot fire) to put inside the handle of a plastic pistol grip, you could use some stick on wheel weights along the rifle stock, and that should get you pretty close to 2.5 lbs.

Stick on wheel weights, it's a pity the lead ones are going the way of the dodo:
http://www.amazon.com/Wheel-Weights-0-2 ... 89&sr=1-14

There are plenty of videos on how to cast lead available.

Jimro


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 20, 2015 7:53 pm 
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Joined: Sun Apr 03, 2011 4:31 pm
Posts: 361
2 or 3 oz fishing weights work and are cheap


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 21, 2015 9:31 am 
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Joined: Tue Mar 02, 2004 9:01 am
Posts: 232
Location: Midland, MI
Auto supply, wheel weights, stick on. Easy, cheap, bendable and you can move them around to suit you. Check rules for placement


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 27, 2017 2:09 pm 
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Joined: Sun Mar 01, 2015 7:16 pm
Posts: 31
Location: WA, USA
I'm also looking for a way to add weight to my 8001's that are used by our junior shooting team. I had considered using stick on wheel weights, but the ISSF 2017 rules prohibit the use of tape to attach weights. Anyone ever attach weights using another method or find a way to put lead inside of the stock?

Ranb


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 05, 2017 9:52 am 
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Joined: Mon Mar 16, 2015 2:33 pm
Posts: 81
Location: Aztec,NM
What I ended up doing for the 8002, was I made a custom mold out of a 2x4 and poured lead. I allowed for the buttplate holes and painted. I was then able to screw the weight onto the rifle with holes already provided.

For the 1914 walnut stock I made a custom mold so the weight was the correct size and weight. painted the weight and attached with 3m double stick tape. The tape from the side is white so I colored it black for overall clean look.

Give me your email address and Ill send photos. I cant seem to figure out how to add them in my reply.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 06, 2017 3:03 am 
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Joined: Fri Oct 09, 2009 10:16 am
Posts: 271
Location: London England
Don't forget the ISSF rule of 5.5 kg max for air rifles


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 06, 2017 10:05 am 
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Joined: Sat Jan 20, 2007 10:18 pm
Posts: 128
Shaft collars is an economical way to add weight to barrels and the shafts supporting butt plates and cheekpieces. Since they are available in steel and aluminium its easy to taylor weights to fit.

http://www.ruland.com/shaft-collars.asp#about

Another easy trick is to cut a piece of steel or aluminum to fit between the butt blate and carrier, or as a dummy carrier depending on make and model. This chunk of metal can function as the weight itself, or allow you to sandwich other weights (like wheel weights) between them.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 07, 2017 1:31 pm 
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Joined: Sun Mar 01, 2015 7:16 pm
Posts: 31
Location: WA, USA
I was reading on another post/website about a guy who made wood molds to pour weights for his FWB. I did the same thing a few days ago. I made a half pound weight that will fit in the adjustable comb of an 8001 and a 1.8 pound palm rest. I left them at the range for the kids borrowing my air rifles; I'll know what they think of them this Saturday.

Making the mold was easy; I just put a block of wood on my combo lathe/mill and bored it out with an end mill. I plugged in the lead pot then poured lead into the mold. I knocked out the ingot, drilled holes to fit the risers then painted it. For the palm rest I machined out the interior of a 2.5" by 6" piece of wood, filled it with lead, knocked out the ingot, painted it then placed it back in. The palm rest is held in place on the rail by two 4mm hex head screws and ground down flush fit nuts.

I'm fairly certain that the young lady wanting weight added to her rifle is going to want a longer and narrower palm rest than the one I made, so I'll end up cutting apart/melting down the one I made and redoing to her specifications. I also have to take more measurements to ensure I did not exceed 120 millimeters from the center of the bore to the bottom of the palm rest.

I can make more barrel weights, but for now I want to keep most of the added weight near the balance point of the rifle.

I'm looking to bring the 8001 up to 10 to 10.5 pounds for now. It will be at least another year or two before the girls using my 8001's are ready for a 12 pound rifle.

You can send photos to ranb40@yahoo.com


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PostPosted: Sat May 27, 2017 9:22 pm 
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Joined: Sun Mar 01, 2015 7:16 pm
Posts: 31
Location: WA, USA
I've been debating the wisdom of adding weight to one of my 8001's with another coach. He says it is best to leave the rifle at 8.4 pounds. I want to bring it up or close to 12 pounds to better match the weight of the 13 pound KK300 one of the boys is shooting. What is the opinion of the people here?

I have decided I can add weight to my 8001 as shown below.

https://goo.gl/photos/w8HcCEaFeYATBaV18

I cast two lead weights, one weighing 390 grams to put into the adjustable comb, another at 135 grams to go inside the stock under the action. I can fit about 500 grams of brass weights made on my lathe from bar stock around the barrel. 1/4 inch spacers made from brass flat bar will weigh about 250 grams each; I can use three that will fit on the adjustable butt plate. This adds up to about 1775 grams; I have room to add about 1500 grams to the rifle to bring it up to the 5.5 kilogram limit so I can play around with where I put the weight. I'll most likely keep it closer to the back. I also have to ensure the palm rest and hand stop do not put me over the limit.

Suggestions? Thanks.

Ranb


Last edited by Ranb on Mon Jul 10, 2017 5:36 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun May 28, 2017 5:12 pm 
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Joined: Sun Mar 01, 2015 7:16 pm
Posts: 31
Location: WA, USA
My wooden ingot mold;
https://goo.gl/photos/D7qrki2oHrvTKEuz8

Ingot in stock;
https://goo.gl/photos/n2gF33VNocnMBhxYA

Ingot in adjustable comb, held in by snap ring.
https://goo.gl/photos/qXbYts9FFjNA8qPJ6


Last edited by Ranb on Mon Jul 10, 2017 5:40 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Sun May 28, 2017 9:59 pm 
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Joined: Mon Mar 16, 2015 2:33 pm
Posts: 81
Location: Aztec,NM
looks good!


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 07, 2017 4:19 pm 
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Joined: Sun Mar 01, 2015 7:16 pm
Posts: 31
Location: WA, USA
I turned some barrel weights from brass bar stock. They are about 1.160 wide with an ID of .78".
https://goo.gl/photos/evjSXyFrTPsXQoCB7

+100 gram brass weights to fit into the adjustable comb in case the shooter doesn't want to use the heavier lead ingot.
https://goo.gl/photos/AcmcyZbAU6YjnFeNA

A 1/4" thick brass spacer to fit between the stock and the adjustable butt plate.
https://goo.gl/photos/kXZ21VHk3ptSN3TFA

Champion's Choice sells steel 25 gram weights intended to fit on the butt plate or comb for $7.50. Their 68 gram barrel weight is $18. I'll be able to make brass weights for much less; of course my labor is free. :)


Last edited by Ranb on Mon Jul 10, 2017 5:35 pm, edited 3 times in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 07, 2017 5:51 pm 
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Joined: Sat Aug 24, 2013 11:26 pm
Posts: 112
Location: Seabeck, Washington
Weight is best added by placing the fully-assembled rifle on a fulcrum and using lead weights to achieve the desired balance.

Image

Then you add melted lead accordingly. Swirling the lead in the ladle will cool it to near the point of solidifying. That's the time to pour it so it doesn't char the wood. Practice it, first.

Image

Sometimes you can't make your weight goals (here it was an increase from 9 to 12lbs) without wrecking the rifle's balance. Always default to the balance side of the equation.

Image

_________________
Bob


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 08, 2017 2:21 am 
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Joined: Sun Mar 01, 2015 7:16 pm
Posts: 31
Location: WA, USA
The balance point of my 8001 is about an inch in back of the rail, or under the second zero in the 8001 logo printed on the receiver. With several hundred grams of weight in the comb and butt, I'll need to attach the brass weights to the barrel in front of the cylinder support instead of to the rear to maintain the same balance point.


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 10, 2017 2:12 pm 
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Joined: Sun Mar 01, 2015 7:16 pm
Posts: 31
Location: WA, USA
Adding weight did not help. The shooter was struggling with the sighters and scored several points lower than usual. After removing the weights things went back to normal. It probably has something to do more with barrel harmonics and making the rifle top heavy than the shooter handling the additional weight.

I'm going to not bother with the barrel and comb weights for the time being. The small lead weight under the action will stay in place and I'll make two more spacers to fit on the back of the stock that are held in place by the butt plate. I already have a heavy lead filled palm rest for the rifle that the shooter likes.

With the small lead weight under the action and 3/4" of brass spacer on the butt plate, the rifle will weigh about 10.3 lbs. With the palm rest attached it will weigh 11.8 lbs. Good enough for now.


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 17, 2017 3:03 pm 
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Location: WA, USA
https://goo.gl/photos/htgqy4hWptfqD1RRA

The brass plates were installed today and the shooter decided to add two smaller weights to the barrel to counter balance. They worked well.

Previously he had put the max weight onto the rifle with the barrel weights merely held in place against the cylinder support by the black Anschutz barrel weight. I have since attached set screws to the brass barrel weights to ensure they are firmly attached. The shooter will add more weight if he wants in the future.


Last edited by Ranb on Mon Jul 10, 2017 5:32 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 26, 2017 1:40 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 26, 2017 12:18 pm
Posts: 6
Location: Brooklet GA
Some great Ideas. I am not near as handy as some of you. I have used wet clay to restict where it goes and poured led directly into the hollow under the forearm on several FWB p70 make sure it does not get in the way of the cocking lever. for the barrel and butt I use solder. I just wrap it around. On the barrel I will cover it with electrical tape. The adhesive tape prohibition is not in the national standard 3 position air rifle rules.


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