TargetTalk

A forum to talk about Olympic style shooting, rifle or pistol, 10 meters to 50 meters, and whatever is in between. Hosted by Pilkguns.com
It is currently Tue May 30, 2017 2:10 am

All times are UTC - 6 hours [ DST ]




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 11 posts ] 
Author Message
PostPosted: Wed Dec 14, 2016 12:00 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Apr 04, 2006 10:29 am
Posts: 19
I didn't see any posts on this. Is there a "red dot" or reflex sight that has no, or negligible Parallax Error at 50ft? I have several makes, and they all have enough error to cause concern. Simple test, sand bag the pistol/rifle, move your head left to right. It can be as much as 1 to 2 rings NRA target.
Looking forward to your responses....

GRM


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Dec 14, 2016 6:10 pm 
Offline

Joined: Mon Feb 27, 2012 3:26 pm
Posts: 24
Location: Big Sky country
Second the question ..... I have four matchdots, one AP, two 22s, and a 44 magnum, and it seems that the dot appears to move with head placement?? I thought a selling point was "no parallax".... not really complaining, just observing.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Dec 16, 2016 9:37 am 
Offline

Joined: Tue Jun 14, 2016 2:52 pm
Posts: 13
I've been waiting for the right time to post my solution to this. I had the same concern and did a lot of research for a stick-on reticle. I finally found what I was looking for at Lancaster Archery. It is a frosted reticle which allows the 4 arms to be peeled off leaving only a circle. I line the dot up in the circle for repeatability. An added bonus is that when I use the bigger dot, the whole reticle lights up when the dot is in the center.

Image

Buy the smaller size assortment. http://www.lancasterarchery.com/gunstar ... small.html


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Dec 17, 2016 2:31 am 
Offline

Joined: Mon Sep 20, 2010 9:58 am
Posts: 315
Location: netherlands
No cheap dot sight is parallaxfree. No matter what their sales add says.
I believe the expensive Doctor sights are parallax free
Dont know at what distances though


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Dec 17, 2016 10:55 am 
Offline

Joined: Thu Oct 13, 2016 10:57 am
Posts: 27
Location: Massachusetts
aprilian wrote:
...when I use the bigger dot, the whole reticle lights up when the dot is in the center.


Interesting solution! I can see how it keeps you on-center. So you put it on the rear lens?


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Dec 17, 2016 7:05 pm 
Offline

Joined: Tue Jun 14, 2016 2:52 pm
Posts: 13
Yes. I tried both front and rear, rear was much better.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Dec 17, 2016 9:43 pm 
Offline

Joined: Thu Oct 13, 2016 10:57 am
Posts: 27
Location: Massachusetts
So, a couple more questions. I assume you place the ring so that the red dot appears centered in it. How do you get it there without endless placement/re-placement? I guess the rear location helps that by simply trying for dead-center.

And, do you find the extra circle distracting? Especially if the dot doesn't land dead-center in it?

With that accomplished, it does seem a nice way to bring the eye to the heart of the bull, and straight through the optic without parallax. That same archery supplier sells "Frost" color ring-only decals too, btw: http://www.lancasterarchery.com/precisi ... ecals.html


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun Dec 18, 2016 5:26 pm 
Offline

Joined: Tue Jun 14, 2016 2:52 pm
Posts: 13
-TT- wrote:
So, a couple more questions. I assume you place the ring so that the red dot appears centered in it. How do you get it there without endless placement/re-placement? it doesn't matter, you are going for repeatability 0 - get close and you are good to go I guess the rear location helps that by simply trying for dead-center.

And, do you find the extra circle distracting? No Especially if the dot doesn't land dead-center in it? repeatability is the goal - reticle gets you there as long as you use it the same every time

With that accomplished, it does seem a nice way to bring the eye to the heart of the bull, and straight through the optic without parallax. That same archery supplier sells "Frost" color ring-only decals too, btw: http://www.lancasterarchery.com/precisi ... ecals.html


It also helps me in not focusing on the bull, When I focus on the bull first and then the reticle, it reduces my tendency to try to "snatch" a shot.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun Dec 18, 2016 6:50 pm 
Offline

Joined: Wed Feb 13, 2013 8:56 pm
Posts: 476
Location: MInnesota
aprilian wrote:
It also helps me in not focusing on the bull, When I focus on the bull first and then the reticle, it reduces my tendency to try to "snatch" a shot.


13 time national champion disagrees, but you must do what works for you.
"Distilled to its essence, Zins’ theories on this are as follows. When using iron sights focus on the front sight, but when using a dot focus on the target."

- See more at: http://www.personaldefenseworld.com/201 ... ian-zins-1

- Dave

_________________
Certified Safety Instructor: Rifle & Pistol
They that give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety.
~ Ben Franklin


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun Dec 18, 2016 11:31 pm 
Offline

Joined: Tue Dec 01, 2009 9:09 pm
Posts: 573
Location: Chesterfield Missouri
There are a lot of people who focus on the dot and some on the target and my guess is it depends on the person. When I was in the AMU in 1965 the coaches said that it is best with iron sights to only look and focus on the front sight and ignore the target because the iris of our eyes being round will automatically center it and trigger pull was the only thing to concentrate on because we must trust our area of wobble whatever it was. For me this was definitely true in slow fire but I could actually aim at the target for the short line and do better just squeezing the trigger smoothly while keeping my aim which was probably due to the fact that I wouldn't wobble out of the 10 ring at 25 yards but would at 50.

We were also told that Blankenship who was the best Bullseye shooter at the time told people to only apply trigger pressure when the sights were in the center and not to watch only the front sight. The coaches disagreed with this vehemently saying that he only claimed this so everyone would do it wrong and not beat him. Personally I think he did this and for the rest of us it just didn't work because our area of wobble was larger than his.

I think the most important thing is to never change from the target back to the dot during a shot. If you are keeping your concentration on either of these and not wavering I don't think parallax will bother you unless it is really bad because you will keep the dot in the center of the scope anyway. The older you get the harder this is, I think primarily because we don't see so well anymore and it is a struggle to stay concentrated on either the dot or the target and we have a large amount of wobble. Try each but not both at the same time.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon Dec 19, 2016 3:28 pm 
Offline

Joined: Wed Nov 09, 2011 7:38 pm
Posts: 163
Sometimes simpler is better. And in this case I personally believe that it is betterer.

With a 1" ultradot. the following works. It also works ok with the 30mm. Currently my 30mm has a 3/4 inch extension tube attached to the front. My 1" dots use lobsterbands.

http://www.starreloaders.com/edhall/nwo ... ancer.html


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 11 posts ] 

All times are UTC - 6 hours [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 4 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group