TargetTalk

A forum to talk about Olympic style shooting, rifle or pistol, 10 meters to 50 meters, and whatever is in between. Hosted by Pilkguns.com
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 10, 2016 12:40 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 01, 2009 9:09 pm
Posts: 587
Location: Chesterfield Missouri
That is correct


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 12, 2016 6:28 pm 
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Joined: Wed Dec 17, 2014 6:00 am
Posts: 46
I modified the lips on my mags (6) and shot about 200 rounds through them today. No stovepipes or any other problems. I haven't changed the springs yet and will shoot the gun some more to see if that change is really necessary for my gun.


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 12, 2016 7:02 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 01, 2009 9:09 pm
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Location: Chesterfield Missouri
I don't remember to whom the credit for figuring this out and posting it goes but it was one of the guys on this site. A lot of people here were instrumental in figuring out what worked and what didn't. If it wasn't for all of us there would be no one shooting lead and blatherers would still be saying that a 32 can't be accurate with lead at 50 yards.


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 16, 2016 10:18 am 
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Today was the first chance I had to chrono some of my 32ACP loads. Temp. was 55 deg.

For Travis 62 gr LSWC, 314 OD, .855 coal, .332 crimp, 1.6 gr N310, CCI primers---916 fps avg vel, 15.1 std dev

For Hornady 60 gr JHP, .3112 OD, .894 coal, .330 crimp, 1.8 gr N310, CCI primers--- 947 fps avg vel, 25.4 std dev

The velocity of both of these loads were higher than I expected. Do these results sound about right to all of you?


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 16, 2016 10:27 am 
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Joined: Fri Nov 25, 2005 11:46 am
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Location: Western Washington State, USA
Greetings,

Looking at my old records, your velocities are similar to my results.

Cheers,

Dave


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 16, 2016 11:43 am 
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Joined: Tue Dec 01, 2009 9:09 pm
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Location: Chesterfield Missouri
tomv, I have never used V310 but for lead but I only go around 780 to 810. Also if you use the same cases and loading technique for lead and jacketed, you very likely will not get top accuracy from both. The cases have to be expanded more for the lead bullet and it isn't good to size them all the way back to original size because it works the case a lot and they aren't consistent either. Earlier in some posts this is all covered. If you are loading jacketed just standard procedures will work fine. I gave up on jacketed because my lead bullets were just as accurate if not more and the velocity is way lower plus wear and tear on the gun is less also.


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 16, 2016 7:01 pm 
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Joined: Wed Dec 17, 2014 6:00 am
Posts: 46
oldcaster,
Thanks for the input. I will get set up to load lead as described in the prior postings. A couple of questions: Are carbide oversize sizing dies available from Lee? I couldn't find that on their website. Will I need to segregate brass used for jacketed rounds from those used for lead? (I hope not :))


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 16, 2016 8:19 pm 
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Location: Chesterfield Missouri
tomv, I don't load both so I can't really say except I think the brass would wear out quite fast. I use a Lee .002 oversize carbide sizer that must be ordered by phone on the Lee site. I expand to .3138 and the first time I expand the cases I oil my expander, do a bunch of brass and then clean the oil off. If I don't oil it is really hard to pull the expander back out so going back and forth expanding and using an oversize die back to stock would be a problem.

Dave (FC60) doesn't even resize as far as I know when shooting lead which might be a good idea but I haven't tried that yet. When you get lead working properly you won't even care about jacketed anymore.

Another thing I don't know (maybe someone can chime in) is whether the commercial bullets are as accurate as hand casting them with a softer alloy. I have never tried them but if you don't have the equipment and they work, it would be a good deal.

You could buy two different brands of brass and use one for each so you don't get mixed up. You will however have to have a different expander and a complete different set of dies except the bullet seating die. When experimenting using different bullet sizes, I had to change the crimp just between .313 and .314.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 17, 2016 10:12 am 
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Joined: Fri Nov 25, 2005 11:46 am
Posts: 415
Location: Western Washington State, USA
Greetings,

For the Pardini factory barrels, I use the following...

For 0.314" bullets, I like R-P brass as the thin wall works well.

For the 0.311" bullets, I use the thicker walled cases like, Hornady, W-W, and Frontier.

I have been working on a "hot" job for a fellow shooter and have not had time to experiment with the 32 ACP.

Email Lee Customer Support or telephone them direct. They will make dies to your request.

Cheers,

Dave


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 09, 2017 7:34 am 
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Joined: Sun Aug 21, 2016 6:11 am
Posts: 102
Location: Haymarket, VA
Could anyone give me a measurement of the angle of the pardini 32acp follower? Also a 32 S&W long for comparison. Trying to see if they use different mags or the same.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 09, 2017 10:32 am 
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Joined: Fri Nov 25, 2005 11:46 am
Posts: 415
Location: Western Washington State, USA
Greetings,

The magazines are the same.

Folks have "tweaked" the magazine follower for better feeding.

You will be modifying a P240 follower.

First item on the agenda is "Where do I get a new/used follower if something goes wrong?"

I would have a spare in hand before carving on the original.

Oh yes, there were two versions of follower. A solid steel one and later on a plastic molded one.

Cheers,

Dave


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 09, 2017 11:09 am 
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Joined: Sun Aug 21, 2016 6:11 am
Posts: 102
Location: Haymarket, VA
fc60 wrote:
Greetings,

The magazines are the same.

Folks have "tweaked" the magazine follower for better feeding.

You will be modifying a P240 follower.

First item on the agenda is "Where do I get a new/used follower if something goes wrong?"

I would have a spare in hand before carving on the original.

Oh yes, there were two versions of follower. A solid steel one and later on a plastic molded one.

Cheers,

Dave



Thanks Dave,
I have 2 mags with steel followers. I figured i could find someone with a 3d printer try try some different angles, i will also look into the feed lips.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 09, 2017 5:08 pm 
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Joined: Fri Nov 25, 2005 11:46 am
Posts: 415
Location: Western Washington State, USA
Greetings Chris,

3-D printing...

Clever, never thought of that option.

Spent too many years working with the "metal removal" process as opposed to the "metal additive" method.

Cheers,

Geezer Dave


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 11, 2017 9:46 am 
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Joined: Sun Aug 21, 2016 6:11 am
Posts: 102
Location: Haymarket, VA
fc60 wrote:
Greetings Chris,

3-D printing...

Clever, never thought of that option.

Spent too many years working with the "metal removal" process as opposed to the "metal additive" method.

Cheers,

Geezer Dave


They even have single machines that add and remove metal.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 16, 2017 5:21 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 01, 2009 9:09 pm
Posts: 587
Location: Chesterfield Missouri
It is fairly easy to add metal to steel as long as it won't be ruined by heating it till it is red. With a torch adjusted to weld with, let the bottom side of the flame make the object red and then introduce a welding rod to the point of the flame and make it drip on the the object. A little practice and you will know how red the object has to be so it will not collapse but the drip will adhere. By doing this it is easily possible to manufacture any odd shape as long as you have the time because it is time consuming but sometimes it is the only way.


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