Original Model 10

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John Hemstock

Original Model 10

Post by John Hemstock »

Can anybody advise me on the suitability of Original Model 10 for 10 metre. Any problems or things to check before purchase. Many Thanks.
John.
john.hemstock-at-ntlworld.com.48732.0
GaryN

Re: Original Model 10

Post by GaryN »

It's very heavy in comparison to other 10m pistols.
As I understand, on that pistol the seal condition is critical. If the seals are not working properly, you could damage the pistons, and that would be EXPENSIVE to repair. So find out it's service history, when was the last time it was serviced and by whom. If not serviced, figure on about $100-150 + shipping to get it serviced (I'm just wild guessing at the price). There are not many smiths qualified to work on the double piston Dianas. Randy Bimrose is one of them, (barrelbender@earthlink.net)
It is hard to cock, but not so hard that you can't shoot.
It is mechanical, and you do have moving mass and moving and vibrating spring which could affect your pellets flight before it leaves the barrel. This is the advantage of SSP or CO2 or CA, no moving vibrating mass inside the pistol.
Depending on what you are looking for, an IZH46 would probably do you just as well, for less than $300.
Gary
.48735.48732
Paul T (UK)

Re: Original Model 10

Post by Paul T (UK) »

Other items to check for are barrel alignment and the barrel shroud. The shroud is used for cocking the pistol and is made of plastic. This was a weak point for several examples. Replacement parts could now be a major problem. Accuracy was adequate when we tested one in a vice when run in at 10m but apart from a model 10 to a definitive collection, I would not choose to shoot one again!
The “anatomical” grip version had some novel adjustments but I am not sure if the adjustments were used, they would be ISSF legal if presented to competent scrutiny today. I had my unit in the mid 80’s and traded it in after three years for a FWB model 80 that I kept for a decade!


.48739.48732
Lewis Reinhold

Re: Original Model 10

Post by Lewis Reinhold »

They are very hard to cock and very risky to buy second hand unless you know the history and most importantly,who has worked on it.The insides ie two pistons flying in different directions separated by a geared drive,three mainsprings etc. make many "airgunsmiths" go weak at the knees.First to go on them are the old brown piston seals and this is usually sped up big time by doses of mineral oil.
When properly rebuilt they are absolutely delightful to use with NO recoil or vibration.Almost like a pneumatic and with 500FPS velocity.

lewisbelinda-at-yahoo.com.48748.48732
Joe G.

Re: Original Model 10

Post by Joe G. »

John, Lewis, Paul and Gary have certainly hit all the pertinent points. I have had a Model 10 for around 5 years now. The old seals failed within the first year and I had it worked on by Tim at RWS who did an excellent job at a reasonable price. It has been fine since then. The newer composition seals (I think they are blue) are supposed to last quite a long time. RWS does not do the servicing anymore and certainly Randy Bimrose would be one of the best recommendations if you needed to have one worked on. I enjoy shooting it and like it as a collectable but it is a bit heavy overall and given a choice in the price range would also rather be shooting an IZH-46 or 46M in a match instead. Second hand you generally find the Model 10 in the sub $300 to $450 price range. Best regards, Joe G.

Josephjfg-at-aol.com.48787.48732
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